Hi, one of my speakers is making a rattling noise (see video) on some bass frequencies. The failing one is the passive speaker and I cant find any screws to open it and check what is the issue.
Does anyone knows how to open this thing?
it isnt blown, right?
I have this issue on my brand new E4.5s. It seems like air is escaping through the on/off switch and causing a slight rattle along the way.
It doesnt bother me anymore really, I can only hear it if I drop the high and mid frequencies on my controller. Still annoying that it exists and came from the factory like that.
Are any of you with issues reporting this to Presonus?
Please add your specs to your SIGNATURE.
Search the STUDIO ONE 6 ONLINE MANUAL. Access your MY.PRESONUS account.
OVERVIEW of how to get your issue fixed or the steps to create a SUPPORT TICKET.
Needs to include: 1) One Sentence Description 2) Expected Results 3) Actual Results 4) Steps to Reproduce.
OS: Win 10 x64 Home, Studio One Pro 6.x, Notion 6, Series III 24, Studio 192, Haswell CPU: i7 4790k @ 4.4GHz, RAM: 32GB, Faderport 8/16, Central Station +, PreSonus Sceptre S6, Eris 3.5, Temblor 10, ATOM, ATOM SQ
Bbd wroteAre any of you with issues reporting this to Presonus?
I haven't yet but intend to soon, I wanted to see if others had a similar issue and if there were any possible fixes I could carry out first.
EDIT: I have now submitted a ticket to PreSonus regarding the issue and linked to this thread as well so I will keep you all updated.
I just received my Eris 3.5 speakers and I'm hearing a pretty loud rattling in the LEFT speaker (the active one with the volume / power switch). Certain bass frequencies are triggering this rattling inside - I can hold it in my hand and hear the rattling. It's loud enough I can hear it coming from the left side from 5 feet away when I hold the right one up to my ear and cannot detect anything rattling from the passive RIGHT speaker. I was hoping it might be something that would resolve as they break in, what is the verdict?
I'm not going to bother going through support unless they have an easy resolution. Easier to just return them and either A) try a second set or B) try a different brand.
Please share any thoughts or experience with this issue.
I have a pair of the E5 XT which I’ve had for exactly 8 days today. Earlier in the week I started noticing that the right speaker was rattling with certain high trebble and/or bass (rattles at certain frequencies). Mine are sitting on sound isolation pads so I thought that was weird. When I lift the speaker up in the air, the rattling still continues which led me to believe there is a manufacturing defect and prompted to search online. I bought them off Amazon, so I am now debating whether to return the defective one (these are sold individually, not by the pair as the E3.5) or simply returning both and try a different brand. Thoughts?
It’s very disappointing as I’ve been happy with the overall sound. Is there a quality control or manufacturing issue that cause some of these to rattle? I would hate to stick with these speakers and start having problems later when the return period expires. I see I am not alone on this.
1. The rattling seems be from a lose cone, unfortunately a manufacturing defect. I found a few other exact complaints on Amazon last night. The issue can develop over time, so this makes me lose confidence on the manufacturing process of the brand at their Chinese plant.
2. The other speaker, although it doesn’t rattle, it makes a somewhat loud popping noise when turning the rear power switch from off to on. I read this was a common issue with the previous generation, but the newer XT’s were equipped with a mechanism to avoid this popping noise from happening at start-up. Sadly, this is still happening with one of mine.
3. I plan to return these tomorrow and place an order for the KRK 5G4’s.
jonemery wroteI just received my Eris 3.5 speakers and I'm hearing a pretty loud rattling in the LEFT speaker (the active one with the volume / power switch). Certain bass frequencies are triggering this rattling inside - I can hold it in my hand and hear the rattling. It's loud enough I can hear it coming from the left side from 5 feet away when I hold the right one up to my ear and cannot detect anything rattling from the passive RIGHT speaker. I was hoping it might be something that would resolve as they break in, what is the verdict?
i just discovered exactly the same problem with mine
what did you do?
Me too having the exact same thing. Rattling from the one with the on/off switch and power. It's really annoying for mixing tracks. I will contact the local distributor here in Greece and post any update. I have valid warranty but is very unsettling reading that others too have this problem. It seems to be more than a defective unit.
I got a FIX for this problem. I hope this helps. The problem comes from the 2 audio jacks in front of the main speaker (the left one with the power switch). If you manage to put something inside that absorbs the air coming out you will fix the problem. To me, this made all the difference, cheers guys!
Greetings to all having this problem on the Eris 3.5 Monitor Speakers:
I ordered mine from Sweetwater-dot-com (an authorized dealer for Presonus I've been purchasing gear from since 2010) They offer an additional free 2-yr warranty on all their products plus excellent phone tech support to customers when calling in.
As a composer and multi-synth keyboardist, I’ve also been audio engineering and building my own project studio recording environments since 1981 (a continued learning process for me-BTW). In short, I don’t have this problem with the Eris 3.5’s since I ordered them on around 03-15-22 from Sweetwater here in the USA.
I wish to make it polity clear that I’m not here to offer theories and solutions to some of you (concerning this rattling problem) just because I’m not experiencing the same. But I am here to suggest considering my personal Trouble Shooting check list anyone can use right now for this. Before one is tempted to ditch (or swap out) these little “audio monitoring jewels.” Because they are surprisingly impressive as “Near Field Monitor Speakers” I’ve ever come across in a long time. All across the board, including their unique affordable price-point-range.
Here are my Trouble Shooting Tips regarding this issue. There are (3) of them as follows:
Are you using the Eris 3.5’s without an ASIO interface of some kind, or attempting to run these Eris 3.5 Monitor Speakers off your Computer’s Manufacturing Sound Stock Audio Card (via USB-C or the mini- headphone jack)?
If your answer to both of my Q’s is “No”, then you need to invest in a decent ASIO Interface with good solid-state-built in pre-amps that ALSO offer Stereo Monitoring Inputs, for a pair of ¼” Instrument male-to-male Input jacks (on both ends) that also run the same for stereo outputs from the Eris 3.5’s (like Presonus’s AudioGo Box). These ¼” inch jacks are high impedance rated and are better known as Balanced TSR’s (as indicated in the Eris 3.5 Set Up/User’s Manual as item #3.).
Regarding the RCA Line-Level Inputs, IF you already have an ASIO Audio Interface, DON’T use these RCA’s at all. They’re Unbalanced and will only cancel out the ¼” Stereo Monitor Inputs IF each pair is plugged in simultaneously at-the-same time (as specified in the Eris 3.5 Set Up/User’s Manual as item #7.).
Also: Depending on how far away the 3.5’s are from your ASIO Interface, make sure you have enough cable length for both units to comfortably plug into each other. Loosely. Not Tight. A Tape Measure is always an Audio Engineer’s best friend. But it’s not an accurate reading. For example: If your Tape Measure reads an approximate 3’ foot distance between the two, buy a pair of ¼” Instrument Cable at 6’ feet to 10’ feet. Otherwise you’ll get hung up big time as you invest more table top gear. Or have to rearrange existing ones around the Monitors and ASIO Interface for some reason.
#3. > CHECK FOR CORRECT STEREO MONITOR POLARITY:
In another words, are the black and red bare -wire connectors (Output to Right Speaker) connected properly in their correct color insert positions? IF NOT, turn the Volume Knob down on front of the 3.5 and Power OFF. Then, upon visual inspection, correct the colored bare wiring error if necessary. Then Power back up to notice any favorable differences. You’d be surprised how many people get this wrong and wonder where all the static noise and (possible) rattling came from because of this oversight. I ought to know. I’m occasionally one of these people myself!
In closing, I’m not saying my (3) Trouble Shooting Points will resolve continued 3.5 rattling issues for some of you that still have them. It could be that the 3.5’s just came manufactured from a bad lot. But that’s unlikely to me. I doubt all of you up here live in the same neighborhood (coincidentally ordering a pair of 3.5’s simultaneously at-the-same time).
Another possibility for rattling on a Monitor Speaker System is HOW people are running their DAW programs (even with a proper ASIO Interface installed). Ideally, a dedicated desktop/laptop should be used as a Customized Platform for DAW and nothing else. With another PC set aside for emails, social media from your ISP Modem and Router, etc.
On Dedicated (or non-Dedicated) DAW Platforms, one can use a VBM (Virtual-Browsing-Machine) program. It can be X’d out after receiving software updates for your DAW or checking emails, social media, etc. Once gone, it’s gone. But not everyone is in a position to do all that.
So, I ALSO recommend that you run only (1) DAW Program at a time (not two including a Stereo Wave Editor such as Sound Forge) and X out your Browser first. This also ties in with possible latency issues within your ASIO if Buffering rates are set below 512. Which could (also) provide “Noise Floor” problems such as pops and clicks. I’m just saying, it’s not a bad idea to consider these possibilities as measures that (may) be contributing to rattling matters (before throwing the towel in on the 3.5.’s).
As always, Happy Hunting!
Possible solution to rattle.
I was experiencing a similar rattle/resonance, in my case with my Eris 3.5's it was the right (passive) speaker that was giving me issues.
At first I thought it was the enclosure resonating, and it does pretty strongly around 200-ish Hz, when in actuality it was just the spade connector at the low frequency driver connections. A bit of solder to keep them from rattling did the trick!
The passive monitor opens from the front, you see the seem between the molded plastic facia and the mdf cabinet. I was able to just use my fingernails to grip the plastic facia and remove it. It's apparently only press fit along the perimeter as well as 6 pegs almost like you find on a typical speaker grill.
Hope this helps someone sort out any issues they are having.
samwijdenes wrotemichaelherbert4 wroteput something inside that absorbs the air coming out
Damn mate, it really helped on my Eris 4.5 BT. Probably need to try to add some soft material to absorb vibration or smth.
Not sure if that is a warranty issue or what, how do you guys think?
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