18 posts
Page 1 of 1
Hello. It's gotten quite cold here recently. I am running the heater on auto. It cuts on and off periodically. Whenever it does this, the song that I am playing back skips and/or pops. Also, I can hear a staticky noise in my headphones. Are HVAC's known to cause such problems? It's really frustrating, especially after you've spent all this money on a new system. Thanks.

P.S. Okay, so it happens even when I am just playing my guitar. I have my amp modeler plugged into the interface and am just tuning and playing S1 is closed. When the heater cut on, I heard the staticky noise in my headphones. What is going on here? I don't recall this having happened when I was running the A/C when I first moved in.

Studio One Artist 2.6.5.30360, Audiobox USB (two channels), Vox ToneLab

ErisE4.5 monitors, Presonus HD7 2x32 Ohms headphones, PreSonus M7 mic

Dell XPS 8700, Windows 8.1 (64-bit) OS, 16.0 GB RAM

Intel(R)Core(TM)i7-4790 @3.6 GHz, 1.8 TB storage (1.74 free)

Ibanez RGT 42 electric guitar, Ibanez GSR 200 bass guitar
User avatar
by scottyo7 on Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:56 am
Yep, audible noise is a function of heaters and nearly anything that has a large initial current draw.

You can try a power conditioner, plugging it into another outlet, a ground lift system or just not using it and playing for 10-15 minutes in between getting warm.

If you haven't already done so...
Please add your Signature & Gear Spec's located in your profile
Here.
ASUS G75VX, i7 3820QM; 16GB; 2 Samsung 840 SSD's; NVIDIA GTX 670MX; Win 8.1.
S1 Pro v4.5.2; EZD2 2.1.7. Behringer UMC404HD USB A/I.
Synths: Alchemy, Air Tech Music Suite. Melodyne Studio 4.2. Ozone 5, (all 64bit).
Akai MPK249. Six guitars. 2 Line 6 POD's & an E-bow.
Rode NT1; Shure SM58. Faderport; KRK Rokit 8's; Dual 28" Monitors.

-My Band: "2GUYZINABASEMENT"
-Just Me
User avatar
by Trimph1 on Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:52 pm
In this old house I got the noise from the furnace clicking on. So we did the moving the plug then we also got a power conditioner...it works well for our needs. :)

HP A6-5200, Hynix 1600 MHz 8Gb RAM, using Peavey USB 6 mixer and onboard sound+ a bunch of modular synths and other such things...
User avatar
by robertpatterson1 on Mon Nov 17, 2014 5:33 pm
I don't know how electrically savvy you are but

most breaker (hopefully you're not on fuses) panels have 2 sides to them.
Check to ensure you outlets breaker is on the opposite side of the panel from your HVAC. If you know enough about AC you can easily move it to the opposite side. If you are the least bit unsure, don't.

I don't know if it will help, but it's a thought.
User avatar
by johnsaxon on Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:49 am
Appreciate the tips. I live in an apartment, so changes to the breaker or whatever aren't feasible. IIRC, I don't recall the A/C having caused such problems (can't guarantee that's the case, though).

For now, I'll probably just have to turn it off and get a space heater. As one person suggested, I can turn it on between sessions. As for the space heater, I guess I'll just leave it on fan to avoid its switching on and off.

Thanks.

Studio One Artist 2.6.5.30360, Audiobox USB (two channels), Vox ToneLab

ErisE4.5 monitors, Presonus HD7 2x32 Ohms headphones, PreSonus M7 mic

Dell XPS 8700, Windows 8.1 (64-bit) OS, 16.0 GB RAM

Intel(R)Core(TM)i7-4790 @3.6 GHz, 1.8 TB storage (1.74 free)

Ibanez RGT 42 electric guitar, Ibanez GSR 200 bass guitar
User avatar
by johnsaxon on Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:53 am
robertpatterson1 wroteI don't know how electrically savvy you are but

most breaker (hopefully you're not on fuses) panels have 2 sides to them.
Check to ensure you outlets breaker is on the opposite side of the panel from your HVAC. If you know enough about AC you can easily move it to the opposite side. If you are the least bit unsure, don't.

I don't know if it will help, but it's a thought.


I looked at the fuse box. The fuse for the HVAC is one the same side as the fuse for the bedroom, one fuse under the fuse for the bedroom. Not that I would try such a thing, but I don't see how you would move the breaker from one side to another. It seems like a serious job even for an electrician. Care to enlighten me? Thanks.

Studio One Artist 2.6.5.30360, Audiobox USB (two channels), Vox ToneLab

ErisE4.5 monitors, Presonus HD7 2x32 Ohms headphones, PreSonus M7 mic

Dell XPS 8700, Windows 8.1 (64-bit) OS, 16.0 GB RAM

Intel(R)Core(TM)i7-4790 @3.6 GHz, 1.8 TB storage (1.74 free)

Ibanez RGT 42 electric guitar, Ibanez GSR 200 bass guitar
User avatar
by johnsaxon on Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:56 am
scottyo7 wroteYep, audible noise is a function of heaters and nearly anything that has a large initial current draw.

You can try a power conditioner, plugging it into another outlet, a ground lift system or just not using it and playing for 10-15 minutes in between getting warm.


So, my computer and equipment are plugged into a surge protector. Do you recommend I put someone else on this connection or rework it somehow? I can obviously just turn off the heat. But, as you well know, it's gotten quite cold recently. It'll probably be like this every day soon.

Studio One Artist 2.6.5.30360, Audiobox USB (two channels), Vox ToneLab

ErisE4.5 monitors, Presonus HD7 2x32 Ohms headphones, PreSonus M7 mic

Dell XPS 8700, Windows 8.1 (64-bit) OS, 16.0 GB RAM

Intel(R)Core(TM)i7-4790 @3.6 GHz, 1.8 TB storage (1.74 free)

Ibanez RGT 42 electric guitar, Ibanez GSR 200 bass guitar
User avatar
by Bub on Wed Nov 19, 2014 11:44 am
johnsaxon wrote
robertpatterson1 wrote I looked at the fuse box. The fuse for the HVAC is one the same side as the fuse for the bedroom, one fuse under the fuse for the bedroom. Not that I would try such a thing, but I don't see how you would move the breaker from one side to another. It seems like a serious job even for an electrician. Care to enlighten me? Thanks.


We all have two 120VAC lines coming in to our breaker panels (for home use). Part of the reason is, some things take 240VAC to run. Stoves, wall ovens, some dryers, electric heat, AC. That's why those higher amp breakers are double wide, they tap in to both 120VAC lines at once.

If you're HVAC is on the same 120VAC line as the outlet you are using, then it's susceptible to noise. If it's not grounded properly it can happen as well. I thought, I could be wrong, that most HVAC units like in apartments were 240VAC (using both sides), but I could be wrong.

Here's a pic of the inside of a breaker box behind the breakers. I wouldn't touch it for liability reasons in an apartment building.

Image

Shane

Intel i7 6700k | Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P | Kingston 16GB 2133 | 2 x Samsung 250GB EVO SSD's | Vantec UGT-FW210 FW Card | Win 10 Pro | S1 Pro 3.5.4 x64 | Firestudio Mobile | Yamaha HS-80's | ART Pro VLA II Vactrol Tube Compressor | ART Pro MPA II Reference Series Tube Mic Pre | Blue Bluebird Mic
User avatar
by Bub on Wed Nov 19, 2014 11:57 am
johnsaxon wrote
scottyo7 wroteYep, audible noise is a function of heaters and nearly anything that has a large initial current draw.

You can try a power conditioner, plugging it into another outlet, a ground lift system or just not using it and playing for 10-15 minutes in between getting warm.


So, my computer and equipment are plugged into a surge protector. Do you recommend I put someone else on this connection or rework it somehow? I can obviously just turn off the heat. But, as you well know, it's gotten quite cold recently. It'll probably be like this every day soon.


A surge protector isn't going to help you. You need a line filter. They are two very different things, and a good line filter is expensive. It is also useless (the surge protector and the line filter both) if your breaker box isn't properly grounded.

At this point I would try a space heater plugged into an outlet who's breaker is on the opposite side of the breaker box from your DAW, and turn your apartment heater off.

I use an oil filled one. They stay warm quite a while after you turn them off. Got mine at Wal-Mart on clearance quite a few years ago.

Mine is very similar to this one ...

Image

EDIT: There is no fan in an oil based radiant heater, that's why I originally chose it for my old studio. They are silent and cause significantly less line noise. The only time you might get a popping noise is when the heating elements turn on, that's why I suggested plugging it in to an outlet that's on a breaker opposite the breaker your DAW is on.

Shane

Intel i7 6700k | Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P | Kingston 16GB 2133 | 2 x Samsung 250GB EVO SSD's | Vantec UGT-FW210 FW Card | Win 10 Pro | S1 Pro 3.5.4 x64 | Firestudio Mobile | Yamaha HS-80's | ART Pro VLA II Vactrol Tube Compressor | ART Pro MPA II Reference Series Tube Mic Pre | Blue Bluebird Mic
User avatar
by johnsaxon on Fri Nov 21, 2014 9:39 pm
This has all been very helpful. I'm not going to be playing w/ the circuit breaker. I don't have the skills and this is an apartment so I don't even have the right. Your explanations were nonetheless helpful.

Workaround is to turn off HVAC and plug space heater into an outlet on the other side of the circuit breaker. Will need an extension cord/surge protector for that.

I don't know what I'll do when it gets hot in the summer. :o

Studio One Artist 2.6.5.30360, Audiobox USB (two channels), Vox ToneLab

ErisE4.5 monitors, Presonus HD7 2x32 Ohms headphones, PreSonus M7 mic

Dell XPS 8700, Windows 8.1 (64-bit) OS, 16.0 GB RAM

Intel(R)Core(TM)i7-4790 @3.6 GHz, 1.8 TB storage (1.74 free)

Ibanez RGT 42 electric guitar, Ibanez GSR 200 bass guitar
User avatar
by johnsaxon on Fri Nov 21, 2014 10:44 pm
On second thought, they are saying that you should not use a space heater w/ an extension chord or surge protector. I won't press my luck. Probably just plug a small space heater into the wall outlet and see how it goes. Thanks.

Studio One Artist 2.6.5.30360, Audiobox USB (two channels), Vox ToneLab

ErisE4.5 monitors, Presonus HD7 2x32 Ohms headphones, PreSonus M7 mic

Dell XPS 8700, Windows 8.1 (64-bit) OS, 16.0 GB RAM

Intel(R)Core(TM)i7-4790 @3.6 GHz, 1.8 TB storage (1.74 free)

Ibanez RGT 42 electric guitar, Ibanez GSR 200 bass guitar
User avatar
by willowhaus on Sat Nov 22, 2014 8:11 am
If you do try to use an extension cord for your heater, you need to make sure that it is heavy-duty enough to handle the current draw. Quick rule of thumb is that 100 watts = 1 amp, so if your heater is 1500 watts (as many are) then you need to make sure that your cord will handle at least 15 amps (20 would be better) of current draw to be safe.

Also, it shouldn't be longer than you actually need - don't use a 100 ft. cord if you only need 20.

Disclaimer: I'm not recommending doing this, but if you are going to try it then you absolutely need to make sure the wiring is strong enough.

An slightly-less old iMac running OS X 10.9.5; Studio One Pro; a bunch of plugins; various other DAWs and editing programs; several mics; miscellaneous wires, with and without plugs; a box of adapters; no-tip coffee cup; indoor plumbing.
User avatar
by johnsaxon on Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:55 am
Thanks. Yes, I won't use an extension cord. I actually just got a small ceramic heater. I plugged it into the wall outlet as the manufacturer recommends. I haven't had any problems. I'll run the HVAC between recording sessions. I could also turn on the HVAC and set it to fan. I haven't tried that yet because I don't want heat blowing out nonstop. But if it gets to cold, push may come to shove. Making modifications to the circuit breaker panel is not feasible.

Also, some guy blamed this on S12 via private message, suggesting that it is an issue w/ the DAW. He said that your computer has capcitors that mitigate voltage drops and that I wouldn't be having this problem w/ better DAW. I said that, even if that is the case, I like S12 because it is pretty easy to beginners to get started w/ (at least in terms of recording).

Studio One Artist 2.6.5.30360, Audiobox USB (two channels), Vox ToneLab

ErisE4.5 monitors, Presonus HD7 2x32 Ohms headphones, PreSonus M7 mic

Dell XPS 8700, Windows 8.1 (64-bit) OS, 16.0 GB RAM

Intel(R)Core(TM)i7-4790 @3.6 GHz, 1.8 TB storage (1.74 free)

Ibanez RGT 42 electric guitar, Ibanez GSR 200 bass guitar
User avatar
by cristofe on Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:04 am
Also, some guy blamed this on S12 via private message, suggesting that it is an issue w/ the DAW. He said that your computer has capcitors that mitigate voltage drops and that I wouldn't be having this problem w/ better DAW.


That's absolute nonsense. :roll:

https://soundcloud.com/cristofe-chabot

PC'S: HP XW6000 Dual 3.2GHz Intel Xeon, 8GB RAM WinXP SP2 HP 6005 Pro AMD Athalon X2 B24 3.0Ghz, 4GB RAM Win8 Pro Dell Latitude E6410 Laptop Intel i5 2.67Ghz 8GB RAM Win7 Pro x64 Audio Interfaces: Terratec EWS88MT PCI (2), Audiobox 1818VSL USB & Firestudio 26x26 Firewire, Line 6 PodXT, Roland GS-10, NI Rig Kontrol 3

Monitors: Yamaha HS50M's DAW: S1 3.2.1 Pro

To add your software and hardware specs to your signature to make it easier for us to help you, click HERE.
User avatar
by Bub on Sun Nov 23, 2014 8:13 pm
cristofe wrote
Also, some guy blamed this on S12 via private message, suggesting that it is an issue w/ the DAW. He said that your computer has capcitors that mitigate voltage drops and that I wouldn't be having this problem w/ better DAW.


That's absolute nonsense. :roll:


Yep, that's why the guy said it via PM and not here. :mrgreen:

Have you tried running a heavy duty extension cord to your DAW's power strip from a different room where the breaker is on the opposite side of the hvac breaker? Get one of those thick orange ones, not the lamp cord kind.

I see the thinking behind plugging in to a circuit on the opposite line as the hvac, but if that hvac is 220 like I suspect, it's not going to do any good anyway.

Shane

Intel i7 6700k | Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P | Kingston 16GB 2133 | 2 x Samsung 250GB EVO SSD's | Vantec UGT-FW210 FW Card | Win 10 Pro | S1 Pro 3.5.4 x64 | Firestudio Mobile | Yamaha HS-80's | ART Pro VLA II Vactrol Tube Compressor | ART Pro MPA II Reference Series Tube Mic Pre | Blue Bluebird Mic
User avatar
by oldblood on Mon Nov 24, 2014 4:55 am
johnsaxon wroteAlso, some guy blamed this on S12 via private message, suggesting that it is an issue w/ the DAW. He said that your computer has capcitors that mitigate voltage drops and that I wouldn't be having this problem w/ better DAW..

I think I have heard it all now....

The oil filled rads that Bub has mentioned are very good, I used one when I I had my studio in the loft/attic. the only time I got any noise from that was when I used the timer function, so I never used the timer, worked great.

Clive

i5 @4.4Ghz, 16 GB Ram, GTX 550TI graphics OS:Win7 64
Focusrite Sappire Pro 24DSP,Nektar Impact LX88,
KRK Rokit 6, Cakewalk MA-150.
DAW S1 V3 Professional
Synths: Reason,
Plugs: Waves, Slate,Soundtoys, Eventide, Lexicon, Melda and various.
User avatar
by matthewgorman on Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:46 am
cristofe wrote
Also, some guy blamed this on S12 via private message, suggesting that it is an issue w/ the DAW. He said that your computer has capcitors that mitigate voltage drops and that I wouldn't be having this problem w/ better DAW.


That's absolute nonsense. :roll:


Sometimes when my foil hat is too tight and I face southeast while playing with a tortoise shell pick held upside down and backwards, I get pops and clicks. But only on bars evenly divisible by 8. I should probably switch daws to correct that.

Matt

Lenovo ThinkServer TS140 Win 10 64bit, 8GB RAM, Intel Xeon
Lenovo Thinkpad E520, Windows 7 64bit, 8 GB RAM, Intel i5 Processor
StarTech EC13942 34mm Expresscard
S1Pro V2 , Melodyne Studio 4, Nomad Factory Studio Bundle, Waves , RM16, Studio 192, DP88, Faderport, Central Station Plus, Yamaha HS50 Monitors, Sceptre 6-8 Monitors, Temblor 10.
User avatar
by johnsaxon on Mon Nov 24, 2014 6:09 pm
Bub wrote
cristofe wrote
Also, some guy blamed this on S12 via private message, suggesting that it is an issue w/ the DAW. He said that your computer has capcitors that mitigate voltage drops and that I wouldn't be having this problem w/ better DAW.


That's absolute nonsense. :roll:


Yep, that's why the guy said it via PM and not here. :mrgreen:

Have you tried running a heavy duty extension cord to your DAW's power strip from a different room where the breaker is on the opposite side of the hvac breaker? Get one of those thick orange ones, not the lamp cord kind.

I see the thinking behind plugging in to a circuit on the opposite line as the hvac, but if that hvac is 220 like I suspect, it's not going to do any good anyway.


Not yet. I might try it though, especially if I have this problem when it's time to turn on the A/C. Thanks.

Studio One Artist 2.6.5.30360, Audiobox USB (two channels), Vox ToneLab

ErisE4.5 monitors, Presonus HD7 2x32 Ohms headphones, PreSonus M7 mic

Dell XPS 8700, Windows 8.1 (64-bit) OS, 16.0 GB RAM

Intel(R)Core(TM)i7-4790 @3.6 GHz, 1.8 TB storage (1.74 free)

Ibanez RGT 42 electric guitar, Ibanez GSR 200 bass guitar

18 posts
Page 1 of 1

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests